Let us be clear about one thing first: any company that gives you a final per-square-metre price before seeing the opening is either selling one cheap system for every situation, or planning to add line items later. A correct price starts after measurement.
Factor one: profile grade
Profiles are classified by their number of air chambers and the thickness of the outer wall. A three-chamber profile is meaningfully cheaper than a five-chamber one — and the performance difference is real, not marketing. There is also a hidden factor: whether internal steel reinforcement is present at all. Steel adds cost, and some low quotations quietly omit it.
Factor two: the glazing
- Single glazing: cheapest, with effectively no insulation. We do not recommend it on external elevations.
- Standard double glazing: the baseline for thermal and acoustic performance.
- Double glazing with a Low-E coating: adds a percentage to the price but makes a large difference on south and west elevations.
- Toughened or laminated safety glass: required for low-level openings and doors on safety grounds, and adds cost.
- Asymmetric build-up (6 mm + 4 mm): for high acoustic performance, more expensive than a symmetric unit.
Factor three: the opening system
Sliding is the least expensive because its hardware is simplest. Casement is slightly higher. Tilt & Turn is highest because its mechanism is complex enough to allow two opening positions. And Lift & Slide door systems step the price up again due to panel size and the lifting mechanism.
Factor four: the hardware
This is the line item most often obscured in quotations. A single-point lock versus a five-point lock is a large difference in both price and security. Three-axis adjustable hinges cost more than fixed ones — but they are what lets you realign a door after five years instead of replacing it.
Factor five: installation and perimeter treatment
Correct installation includes insulating foam around the frame, a compression tape, a UV-resistant external silicone, and plaster making-good where needed. A cheap quote typically prices installation as "fix and silicone" only — and that is exactly the point where water and dust get in a year later.
How to compare two quotations fairly
- Ask for the chamber count and wall thickness in writing, not just "German profile".
- Ask for the glazing build-up in numbers: for example 4+16+4 or 6+12+4.
- Ask directly: is there internal steel reinforcement in every unit?
- Ask for the number of locking points per window and per door.
- Ask for the installation line itemised: foam, tape, silicone, making-good.
- Ask for the warranty period, its wording in writing, and what it excludes.
If you have a quotation now and want it reviewed — send "عرض سعر" on WhatsApp with a photo of it, and we will give you a straight read of the line items even if you never work with us.
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